Good suit vs bad suit

So, what exactly makes a good suit? Well, there are a few things. Fit, fabrication, and craftsmanship, in my opinion are the most important aspects. In this post, I’m going to go through the key things to look for when buying a suit, and what exactly makes it a good suit, vs a bad suit.

FABRIC

The fabric of your suit is arguably one of the very most important aspects, and definitely one of the first things people will notice. If you're buying a cheap suit, and the fabric is also cheap, the likelihood of it not only having a short life, but also probably being a waste of money is quite high. Knowing where your cloth was made is very important, and having it be from a reputable fabric mill is one of the best ways to know whether or not the Super number is accurate {believe it or not, sometimes this number is a lie}. The higher the super number, S100, S110, S120, and so on… the smaller the diameter (in micrometers) of each individual thread is, which in turn will make it feel more luxurious. Make the fabric of the suit a priority, and dear god, steer clear of anything with a polyester blend. Typically, bad suits are made out of a wool blended with polyester, and very bad suits will be made out 100% polyester.

FIT

The other most important thing is the fit of the suit. If you have a beautiful fabric and a poor fit, the perceived value of the suit will be diminished. A bad suit can still be made to fit in areas like the sleeve length and pant length (these are simple adjustments), but the shoulder, chest and jacket length may not be right for your body. The main thing I find to be an issue in off-the-rack suiting is the shoulder slope and the chest shape. If the chest is not shaped to your body, the lapels will bend out when the button is done up.

Key things to look for in fit;

Shoulder width - the shoulder should match yours perfectly - i.e. it should not hang past your shoulder bones and should not end before your actual shoulders do. If it is too big, you're going to look like you're wearing your dad's suit, and if it falls short, it is going to look... well... just bad. 

Sleeve length - the sleeve should end just at your wrist bone. Too long will look sloppy, and too short will give you too much cuff. Keep in mind that in order to get that perfect 1/2 inch cuff, you shirt should also be exactly the correct length, which is approximately 1/2 - 1 inch past your wrist bone, but with cuffs tight enough that it will be held up. If you have short arms, it is best to have a suit made for you, because if you shorten the sleeve of the jacket too much, the buttons are going to look strangely close to the end of the sleeve.

Length - this one depends on your torso to arm length proportions, and differs significantly from man to man, but generally with current styles your jacket length should be just longer than your sleeve when standing with your arms by your side. Too long will look dated, and too short with look like a woman's jacket.  The best way to get the optimal jacket length is to have the suit made for you because it is very difficult for a tailor to shorten a jacket, and impossible for a tailor to lengthen it. 

Pant length - your pant should just touch the top of your shoe, with a small break in the fabric. Any bunching will look sloppy, trust me. If the shorter length means that you're going to be showing sock when you sit down... grab a pair of cool socks and rock the look!

There are obviously a lot more things to look for when it comes to achieving that perfectly tailored look (sleeve width, armhole height, back width, lack of puckering in the front when buttoned up. width of pant, etc.), but most of these are costly alterations, and if any of the aforementioned is happening to you, I'd recommend trying a different brand or trying Atelier.

CRAFTSMANSHIP

The craftsmanship of your suit is what is going to determine whether or not it lasts. At the end of the day, a suit is a classic garment that takes a lot of care and skill to create. If it is mass produced in a factory, you’ll find it lacks the qualities that make it fit well, in addition to not being made well enough to last. A machine can’t determine the way the chest or shoulder should be cut according to each individual client, which is why many off-the-rack suits simply don’t fit well. The craftmanship of your suit is what will make your investment worth it. At the end of the day, a $500 suit that doesn’t fit, doesn’t look good, and won’t last, is still a waste of $500.

Canvassing - good suits will always be full or half canvassed. A canvas is a piece of horsehair fabric that is sewn in between the outer layer and lining of the suit. It is used to ensure the suit holds its shape, and will form to your body overtime, elevating the suit’s custom look. Most nice suits now-a-days are half-canvassed rather than full-canvassed, mainly because of the cost. A fully canvassed suit takes a very long time to make, which means the price is normally very high. For cost effectiveness, as well as comfort and look (half canvassed suits are generally less stiff, and tend to have a nicer drape), we recommend half canvassed suits.

VS

Fusing - Alternatively, fused suits generally would fall in the bad suit category. Fusing is the cheapest way to make a suit, which means the garment will be of lesser quality. The suit will not hold its shape, and over time, as the fusing begins to deteriorate, you’ll end up with a suit that looks as though it is peeling apart from the inside. You have to be careful when buying off the rack. however, because even some ‘higher end’ brands get away with selling fused suits for a price that would generally align with half canvassing.

THOUGHTS…

If you're buying a suit off-the-rack and need those inevitable alterations, make sure you find someone you trust. A good tailor is like having a great wing man. They're trustworthy, good at what they do, and are going to make you look (and feel) damn good. Ask around and get many opinions because bad tailoring experiences can be very. very costly (you'll pay for the tailoring, and perhaps not be able to wear the garment again if it is ruined). In my opinion (but I'll admit this is biased) made-to-measure is always the way to go if you're finding that you’re constantly needing to get things altered. Most of the time (if you have someone good), your made-to-measure suit is going to cost significantly less than a brand name off-the-rack suit (think Boss, Z Zegna, etc.), will be half canvassed, and you won't have any alterations to worry about. Once again, make sure you get a good feeling from the person who is making your suit. Who is making it, how it is made (i.e. mass produced or hand-made), where the fabric is from and if it is from a reputable mill, how much experience they have, what is their alteration policy, do they take care of fittings, etc. are all very important things to know to ensure you're not also wasting your money on a poorly made suit.